Discovering Andrew Mackenzie - f/w 09

Andrew Mackenzie is a designer who's collection i stumbled across a few weeks ago.

He caught my eye when I was looking at a collection of jackets which where made up of a series of crossing over panels and collars in an asymmetrical form. Later I looked at previous collections he had done and I noticed on one of the pieces that the jett pocket travelled across to contrast fabrics which I thought was quite cool, but when I looked into it more it was evident the two contrast fabrics signify two different garments; one a vest the other the jacket. It intrigued me how the two where joined, considering that it seems the top of the vest travels of into a separate layer and sits underneath the jacket; where as the bottom is sewn in a seam. I think it would be interesting to inspect the garment closer and see where the sewing finishes, how far the jacket continues and even how much of it is attached.

It’s also interesting to see how he his played on the lapel style creating what looks like a collared shirt around the neck but joins into a notch lapel which positioned lower. I also like the variation on the pocket flaps and there shape along with the hem line on the jacket. Especially the idea that when the vest and jacket are combined they have two varied hem lengths which in a way flow in two another and create an illusion layering effect, which is also the case in the jacket which utilises a contrast fabric for the vest but then again for the lapel on the actual jacket body.

The theme of combing the vest and jacket into one piece and using the jetts to combine the two was predominate in this f/w09 collection. It was utilised but altered in variations which saw different lapel styles, pockets and flaps, buttoning methods and additions such as military tabs. Each jacket had a complementing pair of pants which was in one of the jacket fabrics and the combinations varied from the adoptable black to a combination which included a vibrant tartan.