types of structure

FULL CANVASSED – the canvas front structure is first pad stitched together consisting of the desired layers from chosen materials. It is then basted into the jacket front covering the majority of the jacket and giving it the greatest possible stability

HALF CANVASSED – the fusing is used to support the section where the canvas does not reach, the fusing is extended past the canvas only so there is no evidence of the finished line of fusing and is excluded in the lapel. The canvas stops just below the pocket.

A fused jacket is own that has had glue applied to stiffen in an attempt to simulate canvas.

PADDED LAPPEL – is fused in the same manor as a half canvassed jacket. The difference being the lapel canvas is inserted under the fusible as it is being fused allowing the lapel to be padded so the chest piece can be attached separately. This method allows the maker to avoid the use of basting any sections of the jacket

FULLY FUSED – there is no wool canvas and the chest piece is applied using the same method as for the padded lapel

To tell if a garment is fused or canvassed pinch the fabric and you can feel either if there is a floating piece in between the lining and outer fabric. If it is half canvassed you can fold it at the lapel break point and feel for the changed in surface between the bottom half and top half of the body. If this is the case you will feel the halt of the canvas piece and a change in surface texture. You can also test the lapel by examining the underside of for little pricks which would indicate pad stitching.